Stockholm. A city spread across a number of islands. Historic buildings galore and more museums than we have seen anywhere. We needed a plan about how to see this city.

The old town (Gamla Stan) on the island of Stadsholmen was the obvious place to start. It is all cobbled streets, old and colourful buildings, souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes, Every corner reveals another view worthy of a postcard or a film set. I read somewhere that the lovely yellow and orange colours of many buildings are described as 'saffron and cinnamon'. Very apt. There is always more to look at. Doors, sculptures, trees, gardens, and people of course. We criss-crossed the island (and two smaller islands) until we realised we needed coffee. And food. And to sit for a while. 

 


 We went gingerly down some very steep stone stairs to Cafe Sten Sture, in a cellar that is 600 years old. It was at one time a prison, but now serves as an atmospheric cafe. We ordered the 'Lax pudding' a sort of smoked salmon potato bake. With salad, bread and coffee included. (89Kr or A$14. Each.).

Another day we took the ferry to Djurgarden, an island with lots of green parkland and some major museums. The islands around Gamla Stan were settled once the centre ran out of land. but the island is now obviously a place for wealthy home owners who have huge houses with very large waterfront gardens. We wondered how the prices compare with Sydney waterfront homes. Could hardly be as expensive. We took a walk to the south of the island past these houses to the the wonderful Waldemarsudde Art Gallery. Donated by its owner to the state, it had an exhibition of colourful paintings by Expressionist painter Emil Nolde. The mansion is also open and has some lovely rooms overlooking the water. Loved the hydrangeas and lilacs as floral decorations.

It was an art gallery and park sort of day, as we then took the bus back to the city and walked over the wrought iron bridge to another island, Skeppsholmen. This island was in the 17th century the base for the Royal Navy, and many of the buildings here were designed as naval stores or barracks. The walk around the island gave us some wonderful views of Gamla Stan and the City. 

We did walk for a long time, and Bob was quite sure we would not find any lunch here (yes-back to food again). But I am picky about where we eat, and usually take some time to find a place, but always (well, nearly always) manage to find just what I was looking for. And here we did. Restaurant Hjerta is in a rustic old waterfront building on the waterfront of the island. Here you would have to order fish. And we did. Very tasty Herb Marinated Fried Herring with a Pickled Salad. With serve yourself fresh bread, butter and coffee. For A$21 each it was very good, 

Now recovered, we had enough energy to visit the Modern Art Gallery before taking the bus home. Who knows how many kilometres later we were home.  

PS Oh, and last time I was talking about the prevalence of crackers and crispbread here. Well today they were handing out samples on the street corners. The 25cm type. Must say they taste better fresh than similar products we have tried before.