Walking Stockholm (2)

Wednesday, June 03, 2015
Stockholm, Stockholm, Sweden
To explore the Sodermalm area (south of Gamla Stan) we followed a walking tour I found online based on the books by Stig Larsson known as the Millenium series (The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo etc), We have found having some specific sights to look out for is always a good way to explore a place. And we did enjoy the books and films. 

It soon became obvious that the area is much like the West End that we are familiar with. There are old houses and new upmarket apartments by the water, more ordinary housing inland, quirky shops, and interesting cafes. Not to mention interesting looking people. We did not see a Lisbeth Salander look-alike but there were outfits heading that direction.
 


 
Our first stop was the building which was chosen in the series as the home of one of the central characters, Mikael Blomkvist. It is in interesting looking street called Bellmansgatan that is by the water. It is also just near one of the elevators - Mariahissen - that used to take people down to the much lower streets by the water. The area has lovely views and we thought possiibly not the sort of area a journalist could afford to live in, even if in an apartment.

From here it was to the Mellqvist Kaffebar, a place frequented by both the character and Larsson the author. It started to rain just as we arrived here, so we took advantage and had coffee here. Love the coffee shops here. As we did in the Baltics.

There were some more locations from the books - Mikael's office, the 7/11 store that Lisbeth Salander uses, and the beer-hall where she meets up with friends. Lastly the very up-market apartment that she gets by devious means later in the series. 

We stopped for lunch in a 'Pig and Whistle Pub' (are they everywhere?). Meatballs with Lingonberries were on the lunch list. Had to try that (and again A$14 with the usual salad bar, bread, butter, coffee). Great on a cold wet day.

Before we headed to the newer 'City' we walked out onto the Katarinahissen, a tall elevator currently out of use but with great views of the city. Now that we have been here a few days it is great to look from on high and be able to recognise the various areas and attractions, as at first it had seemed difficult get a picture of how it all worked together.

We now also have some idea of what things cost and it is more affordable than we had expected. Public transport tickets are much the same as at home. Coffee is expensive so we do not buy often. Meals at lunchtime on weekdays can be found for good prices, but dinner is much more expensive. Which does not concern us as we are rarely out at night. 

We have been surprised at the number of beggars here and also in Malmo and thought this might be an issue related to the economy. But it seems the free movement of people between EU countries has resulted in an influx of Romany people from Romania.

  Sweden has also accepted large numbers of refugees from Syria (30,000 or so) but the economic downturn a few years ago has meant there have not been as many jobs for these people as had been expected. All difficult issues for the country to deal with.

One social aspect which is much more obvious here (as it was in Denmark) is the very visible role men play in caring for small children. I read many men and women both work part-time and so share the load. Childcare itself is subsidised and comes at a much lower cost than in Australia, We have also been surprised at how many preschoolers are taken out of centres by staff on outings to parks, playgrounds and other attractions. All the children wear high-vis vests. Depending on age they walk with staff, though we have seen children in large strollers and sometimes in little trolley type arrangements that hold 6 children. It is possible that centres don't have outdoor play areas, and that children need sun as much as exercise but it seems a big responsibility. Obviously it is just what we become accustomed to.

Our time in Stockholm was drawing to a close. We will now travel west, on our way to Norway.
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