Novi Pazar, Serbia
Novi Pazar is a region of Serbia that had long fascinated me. It is known as "Serbia's Oriental City" for its rich Turkish Heritage. The history of this region is a factor of its geography.
One of the myths of the origin of the name "Balkan" is the Turkish "Bal" (honey) and "Kan" (blood). The region is rich and fertile but full of blood from the hostile locals attacking.
As the Ottoman Balkans began to break up towards the end of the 19th Century with Serbia and Montenegro gaining their independence the "sandzak" of Novi Pazar remained as a land bridge linking Bosnia to the rest of the Ottoman Balkans. It was also joined with Kosovo as an administrative region
Eventually after the Balkan wars of 1912-14 the region was absorbed and split in half between Montenegro in the south and Serbia in the north.
This always add to tensions when peoples are divided across borders. The region maintains its strong identity distinct from Serbia or Montenegro.
I was first able to visit in 2013 on my big Balkan Trip [see blog entry - http://v2.travelark.org/travel-blog-entry/londone7/27/1381051824] and was looking forward to my return visit so had a two night stay. Unfortunately the day was ruined by the heavy rains
After my morning tour to the Serbian Monasteries around town [see previous entry] I wanted to wait out the rain a bit in my apartment before heading back out. I was next to the City Museum which had its doors open as we drove back but when I went out after 3pm it had already closed
At the main intersection were tourist signs beside the Turkish Han (guesthouse).
Across the street is the iconic modernist architecture though not sure what this building is. Part hotel, conference centre, and maybe part of the University
Crossing the river is the Fortress and the Old Quarter. The fort seems to be under some kind of renovation from my visit in 2013 and they built some big city building in the middle.
One of the back streets in the Old Town across had the remains of the Turkish Hammam (baths). These are a typical feature of Turkish towns but mostly in disrepair and not used, or converted to museums, galleries, or restaurants
Walking south thru the Old Town will bring you to the Altun Alem Mosque, one of the historic Mosques in the town
As you continue to walk out there are more Mosques but the rain was coming down heavy now. Lucky I was trying out my rain pants which I had got in Amsterdam in my last trip and they seemed to be working when the inside of my pockets had been soaked thru in a North Sea storm in Belgium
Further out were twin minarets but I could not figure out how to get there at first as it is inside the side streets
I returned back to the Old Town as this was not the weather to be venturing out further
I needed food and had no Serbian cash. I did not want to exchange money when I would be leaving for Kosovo in the morning. Luckily a kebab place said they would take 5 Euros (580 Dinar) for a 400 Dinar kebab so I had some local currency for change in case they charge for luggage on the bus tomorrow
It was a shame about the heavy rains and I had been looking forward to my return to Novi Pazar. Had the weather been nicer there are many Mosques so I could have hired a cab or my guide to drive me around town looking at the Mosques. Perhaps I will have to come back for that
See also Vlog (16 mins) - https://youtu.be/f7jSUk8s6FE
2025-05-22