Old Bridge Mostar, Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Mostar is the capital of the Hercegovina region of Bosnia and this was my third time here. I had a rushed visit with a tour group in 2006 then came back on my own for three days in 2007.
There was war damage on my trips in 2006/07 but I was surprised there was still this much damage 17 years later. A guide later explained that under local laws the owner or their descendants must be contacted and some can not be located. Or they are tied up in disputes and never go anywhere.
There were signs to an ethnographic museum house. I rang the bell and they told me to come back tomorrow even though it says it opens today for the season. I guess they were still not ready.
I had booked two day trips next two days for Hercegovina region and Titos Bunker but the travel agency (ihouse) said it was not confirmed as there were not enough people booked. First I located their office to talk to them in person and they told me the same thing.
I decided to ask around at other agencies. Fortuna Travel (reminds me of Bib Fortuna from Return of the Jedi) said they could take me to Pocitelj with a private driver for 60 Euros. The group tour I wanted was 40 Euros or there was always a bus option. The fortress of Pocitelj was where I really wanted to go and wasnt able to make it on my 2007 trip.
I then asked in Stari Most travel. They took my 40 Euros and said they will go tomorrow. It did not sound reassuring that they had other bookings but they had taken my money and given me a receipt so I guess I would find out tomorrow morning if they cancelled on me.
Now I did my walk thru of the old town and bridge though this was my third time here so the excitement of this Islamic town in Europe had worn off.
The famous landmark of Mostar is the Stari Most bridge built by the Turks in the 1600s. During the 1992-5 war it was destroyed by attacking Croat forces. The war is confusing as it was a three way battle between Serbs/Muslims/Croats, though the Muslims & Croats later joined a Federation together.
The original plans were still in Istanbul so with the help of UNESCO they recovered the stones from the river and rebuilt an exact replica bridge which opened in the early 2000s.
Another feature is you can pay locals to dive off the bridge and it is a rite of passage for local young men
I exchanged 50 Euros at the Post Office but they said they will break the 100 Euro notes I already had. A nearby bank did it with no questions or asking for my passport.
The old town has lost a lot of the character from 2006/07 when lots of artisans were working banging metal and making their crafts. Perhaps many are retired now and the younger generation is not interested, common in many cultures. The crafts could now be machine manufactured or even from China!!!
Then I had some Cevapci for lunch, the Bosnian dish for 7 BM (3.50 Euros). It is fresh baked break with small grilled lamb kebabs. We have a Bosnian restaurant in Toronto where I can have this too.
There was a Turkish house funded by the Turkish Govt which was an ethnographic house but can also be used as a hostel for paying guests. I couldnt find that from my 2007 visit.
It is part of this Mosque complex pictured but maybe they do not take paying guests anymore.
About 7.30pm the building shook for a fit. I thought somebody's car false started. Later I was told this was an earthquake and the second in recent days.
In the evening I went for a walk to see the town at night but pictures do not come out great. I also noticed that the bakeries which were my lifeline were open from 6am-1am so almost 24 hours
See also Vlog - Best of BEST OF HERCEGOVINA Bosnia | Trebinje | Mostar | Blagaj | Pocitelj | Kravice | Mostar Travel (23 mins) - https://youtu.be/NBgTM7V-JJ8
2025-05-22