Trebinje, Republika Srpska, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Taking the taxi from Dubrovnik he drove at high speeds around mountain curves to the Bosnian Border which was not far. Originally my plan was to spend the day in Dubrovnik and take the 8pm bus listed online. However on arrival at Dubrovnik there were no buses to Trebinje so I had to change plans and take a taxi across the border.
He wanted the address of my hotel but because I was staying at a private apartment I told him to just drop me in the town centre so I could orient myself on my map. I tried to text on my phone but changing borders again there was no signal on my SIM card.
I decided to just walk to the apartment and see if I could flag a passer by to call them. The apartment is an extension to a family home and they were at home so able to let me into the apartment. It had a view from the window overlooking the hilltop church. The lady spoke some English and said I would have to take a taxi as it is not easily walkable as it had appeared on my map
There were three generations of the family living in their portion with lots of room to build up or down on their hillside home. My apartment was quite modern and only 22 Euros to give the family some income. It seems many across Bosnia have turned to this option to supplement their income.
I needed to exchange money and they told me of a money exchange in the town centre. I exchanged 50 Euros for 97 Bosnian Marks. The exchange is 2M = 1EU but they charge fees
There is a small old town centre with two Mosques that do not appear in use. This region is part of the Republic of Srpska, the Serbian region which had pushed out the non Serb population during the war. There has been post war return migration to some regions and the town did not appear overtly nationalist
Just outside the Old Town was the main large church. This had impressive mural artwork typical of Orthodox Churches
I went to the bus station to scout out times and prices for tomorrow. The online information was correct that there was a 10am bus to Mostar tomorrow morning. There was also a supermarket where I was able to get drinks.
I now wanted to flag a taxi to take me to the hilltop church. There were two outside the supermarket but they left when I came out. I tried waiting or checking the bus station. There was one taxi with no driver. He was in the cafe having a drink and flagged me.
He spoke almost no English but said he would take me to the church for 4 Euros. This is the same price the apartment had told me. There were winding roads to climb the hill. My original plan to come on the 8pm bus from Dubrovnik was to run up here early morning before the 10am bus to Mostar. But now having seen the landscape it was better to come by taxi.
There are views overlooking the town, distant churches, and the historic bridge. You are also able to enter the small hilltop church with more murals.
Nearby was another church under construction. The taxi driver then wanted to take me to other churches but I said just to take me back to the centre.
I didnt have anything smaller than a 20M note (10 Eu) having just exchanged the money. He took the 20M and was talking in Serbian so that was not what we had agreed.
I got a large sandwich to eat for 8M (4EU) to have some food and smaller currency. I then made my way to the historic Turkish bridge, the symbol of Trebinje
The bridge is actually right angle to my apartment. Despite having waterside paths to take you to the bridge, it doesnt actually take you anywhere on either side and you have to walk back along the path to the town centre.
My original plan was to come by bus from Dubrovnik at 8pm and check out the old town and church early morning before the 10am Mostar bus. If I had more time and reliable taxi pricing there are more Serbian Monasteries to see around the City
However I had made the right choice by coming by taxi from Dubrovnik early afternoon. The hilltop church despite looking nearby on google maps is best accessible by taxi. Nor would I have seen the old town properly rushing in the morning to the bus station
It was a pleasant quiet escape from all the tourists in Dubrovnik and an overlooked opportunity barely 30km away across the border.
See also Vlog - Best of BEST OF HERCEGOVINA Bosnia | Trebinje | Mostar | Blagaj | Pocitelj | Kravice | Mostar Travel (23 mins) - https://youtu.be/NBgTM7V-JJ8
2025-05-22