Jaiselmer, Rajasthan's Golden City, is nicknamed for the golden-colored sandstone of most of its buildings, including the impressive fortress which rises above the plains like a mirage from ancient times. The city's small size of less than 100,000 population makes Jaiselmer much less chaotic and overwhelming than most Indian cities I visited, with much more of an authentic old ambience. The fortress city on the hill was simply spectacular, including the Fortress Palace, several temples of the Jain religion, and plenty of narrow alleys winding through stores and residential areas leading frequently to great views of the desert city from the fortress walls.

Most of Jaiselmer is outside the fortress, though, and there are a few other sights in town . Foremost of the sights are the Havelis, huge multi-storied houses of wealthy merchants with fairy tale architecture stone archways and turrets, carved lattice wooden screens, windows, and balconies, and beautifully furnished interiors, several of which are now museums. Jaiselmer was mostly just fun to walk around, though, as one of the places closest to the India of my childhood imagination with cows wandering the streets, women in especially colorful saris, narrow carfree lanes, and men wearing big turbans. It turned out to be one of my favorite places in India.

Jaiselmer is one of several places in India where bhang, a product of the marijuana plant is legal and sold and used openly. Many of the other places are Hindu holy cities since bhang is widely used by Sadhus (Hindu holy men) in religious rituals. and is also used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine. My understanding is that bhang is made from the leaves of the cannabis plant rather than flowers and buds, but I'm not really sure. In any event, it's mostly used as an additive to drinks and foods and is best known as an ingredient in "special" lassis (yogurt drinks). When in Jaiselmer do as the locals, so I went to one of the bhang shops. I'm not used to marijuana, so I figured I'd start with a moderate strength one after lunch and felt rather little from it. So later in the evening I went back with a few of my trip buddies and ordered a strong one. Again, I can't say I felt too much of an effect from it other than sleeping very well that night. The special cookies I bought to take for camping on the camel trek were a different story, though.