2098. A Glorious Layover

Wednesday, April 06, 2016
Oberschleissheim, Bavaria, Germany
Day 3-043
8 hrs, 7 kms

It's been almost 3 years that I've been stuck in the Western Hemisphere . Now that I have a full month free for travel, I know it's time that I get off this "island" and back to the "real world"...

So where to? Asia has been calling me for quite some time now... and I'm itching to get started on my Euro Mega-hike..

But no... Deep down I know exactly where I need to go: Africa. I know I'm going to need to tackle this continent eventually. And there's no better time than now. And it only makes sense to start in the visa-free part of the continent. So I book my ticket to Johannesburg, South Africa... grab an "Africa" guidebook from the local library... pack up my stuff and head out the door.

But before I get there I'm going to make a quick stop in my beloved Europe for a 6 hour layover.

Arriving in Germany

I arrive at Munich International, and waste no time getting out the door . This time I'm not interested in wasting precious hours "escaping" the airport on foot. I'm going to catch the S train straight to a nearby town and start exploring and cramming in towns.

It's a great feeling to be back in Europe. Even from the sky it feels so different than America. I look down and see scores of towns and villages, tightly packed together, sorrounded by farmland and forest. And I know that each town has it's own "soul" culture and character. I suddenly feel such an appreciation for strong government regulations that determine where people can build houses and what land will be reserved for farming and forest--rather than the land development anarchy we have in the US.

... And to arrive at a train station, knowing that in a matter of minutes I will be whisked away to another town where I can start exploring... surrounded by respectable people without feeling the slightest threat to my safety...

Ah.. . I'm looking forward to getting back here for some serious trans-Europe hiking...

Since I already parkbenched Munich proper back in 2009, I'm going to do some suburb towns today. But Oberschleisheim is no ordinary suburb: Google earth showed my something that looks suspiciously like a spendid garden palace in this "suburb" of Munich...

I hop off the train alongside high school kids heading off to class, down the street, snapping a couple quick photos of the typical German homes, with their steep angled roofs and colorful gardens--but still packed close enough together to give it a dense, urban feel. Not as many half-timber structures as I'd like, but that's OK...

And then I reach Schleissheim Palace. At first it looks pleasant, but not that spectacular, with a large couryard with a stream running under it, surrounded by by a single building that has a bit more of a simple, rural feel, with steep, red tiled roof . I go through a tunnel entrance to another courtyard that has a statue in the center and feels a bit more classy...

I feel I'm still missing something, so I head out to the other side, where there are a labyrinth of paths through forest and small plot gardens, around the building to...

A absolutely splendid, perfectly manicured royal garden with a fountain in the center between two palaces! Each quadrant of the garden matching, creating a perfect mix of beauty and order.

Lucky for me there's a stairway up one of the palaces with a perfect spot to set up my camera and run down to take a video clip of myself.

And then... I continue on around the second palace... and lo and behold... ANOTHER garden 10 times larger, with a pool stretching on to another palace at the far end!

I gaze in awe, thinking of all the hours of labor put into maintaining this magnificent complex--which is free for the commoners to enjoy! It reminds me of the other grand gardens of Europe that I've visited--Versailles ... Caserta... except this one doesn't seem to be very well known... (and did I mention it's free?)

Yep... I'll take a European "suburb" over a typical American city any day...

I stroll through the stillness of the morning, with only a couple of locals around, all the way to the summer house at the far end of the pool... The trees are still mostly bare, but the garden itself is in full bloom, giving it a mix of color and solemnity.

back at the palace I walk along a series of classical statue along the wall, mainly of women engaged in various activities.

Each palace is a museum as well, which cost just a couple of Euros. It wouldn't hurt to contribute a little bit towards this magnificent site--although I'm sure the museums are operating at a loss.

The one I visit has religious displays from around the world--mainly mager scenes and crucifixion displays from different countries--with a few Islamic and Jewish displays as well . I'm a little disappionted, as I was hoping for more history on this palace itself. The other side has some historical displays--but all in German, so it's limited what I can understand...

Anyways...

I finish up with a wonderful parkbench concert, surveying my garden, then head on my way. As I leave, I ponder on the significance of this discovery.

What is beautiful about Europe

What is really so special about a palace and garden in this small German town? If one is to delve into the history, you quickly realize that these gardens, and palaces are relics of a time of terrible exploitation, when the small, privileged elite lived in luxury a the expense of the masses. The glorious castles were built because people were constantly fighting and killing each other. The cathedrals were built during a time when people were tortured in unspeakable ways simply for criticizing the established religion .

The history of Europe is full of horrible atrocities committed by humans against other humans.

But what has happened? Europe (at least Western Europe) has taken these things and made something truly beautiful: A society which takes care of all it's people, not just the nobility.... a society where you are free to believe what you want and express yourself. A society with the closest thing to equality since the Stone Age. A society where (at least for now) nations have figured out how to work out their differences without going to war, so everyone can live in peace and safety.

And all these palaces, cathedrals and castles--once reserved only for the elite, are carefully preserved so that everyone can enjoy them.

This is why I want to really immerse myself in this continent. I know it's not perfect. But it might be about as good as it's ever gonna get .

And it will not last forever in this beautiful state. It needs to be enjoyed now.

I try following bicycle paths that cut through the town running behind the houses, but I end up going in a big circle... Finally I read the town center where I stop for a mandatory Turkish doner. (Can't visit Germany without one!) and continue on a bicycle path to the next town.

As in Italy, it takes just a few hours before someone stops their car to ask me for directions. Unfortunately my German isn't as good as my Italian... so I'm unable to provide assistance....
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