Not fully iced-out after Antarctica, we went in search of new glaciers to discover. We enriched our knowledge of ice in the idyllically located 'Glaciarium', a museum packed with information about the anatomy and formation of glaciers and icebergs. We completed our experience in the basement 'ice bar', which is kept at -10 C and everything within it is made of frozen water. At 12.30pm, we took full advantage of the 25-minute open bar policy!

In the afternoon, we took a bus out to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares to the massive, blue-hued Glaciar Perito Moreno . Its 60m jagged ice peaks sheer off and crash with huge splashes and thunderous sounds, producing small tidal waves and large bobbing icebergs in the adjacent Lago Argentino. Measuring 35km in length and 5km in width, the glacier is unusually advancing (up to 2m per day). Every once in a while, part of its snout advances far enough to reach the Peninsula de Magallanes to dam the Brazo Rico arm of Lago Argentino. This causes tremendous pressure to build up, and after a few years a river cuts through the dam, collapsing it with spectacular results.

An extensive network of well-maintained boardwalks snaking along the Peninsula de Magallanes offers glorious panoramas. We were mesmerised by the enormity in front of us as we waited for the next dramatic calving.

We reflected on our icy experiences over a tasty dish of Patagonian lamb.

Onward bus to El Chalten, 3 hours.