In 1861 an earthquake leveled the city of Mendoza. Although a tragedy at the time, rebuilding efforts have created a picturesque city with wide leafy avenues and spacious plazas. It also happens to be in the middle of many of the country's best vineyards - the region produces 70% of Argentinian wine.

After our overnight bus, we wasted no time in getting out to explore the city sights: impressive fountains on the huge Plaza Independencia, Plaza Espana's pretty tiles, panoramic views from the townhall roof and the massive forested Parque General San Martin where the 'Estadio Malvinas Argentinas' World Cup '78 stadium is located - unfortunately a sight the England team failed to see .

This was our first experience of a big Argentinian city and despite the pleasant leafy boulevards, the poverty within the city was all too clear to see, a reflection of the country's general economic instability. Although the cafes on Av Sarmiento are known as good people-watching spots, we hadn't expected to see beggars coming to tables to take the uneaten food as soon as customers left.

The next day we met Mr Hugo, king of bike rentals in Maipu. Armed with a crude map of the surrounding vineyards, we set off enthusiastically on our 'grape escape' which, much to Sam's delight, also included a cerveceria. The tastings received at each bodega were generous and the lunch-stop at Di Tomasso overlooking the vines was a highlight. Lesson of the day: never leave a draw-string bag in the basket of a bike whilst navigating with a poor map (nothing of value lost). After a final wobbly cycle to return the bikes, Mr Hugo rewarded us with a complimentary bottle of his best unlabelled vino tinto. We probably didn't need to sample it on the bus home...

Needless to say the following day was uneventful as we recuperated and waited for the night bus to Cordoba, 10 hours.