En route to Encarnacion, we found ourselves at Posadas bus terminal at 5am. With time on our hands before the border (officially) opened, we decided to leave our bags at the bus station and venture out to the Mission of San Ignacio Mini.

In the early 17th-century, Jesuit missionaries created reducciones (settlements) where the indigenous Guarani were introduced to European high culture, new crafts, new crops and new methods of cultivation . By the time of their expulsion in 1767 (because of Madrid's concern that their power had become too great), the Jesuit influence had spread from Paraguay to Argentina, Bolivia and Brazil.

The Mission of San Ignacio Mini is possibly one of the best preserved reducciones, having once accommodated 4,500 Guaranis. The enormous red-sandstone church dominates the site alongside the cemetery, cloisters, living quarters, prison and workshops. Standing in the centre of the Plaza de Armas, we were able to imagine how life had once been.

Later in the day, we crossed the international bridge into Encarnacion. 'La Perla del Sur' or 'Capital de Carnaval' is Paraguay's most attractive city, and after the recent completion of its 'costanera' (riverside promenade) together with beach, locals even refer to it as the new Rio de Janeiro. Not quite, but it was pleasant enjoying an ice cream in an idyllically set Burger King(!) as we watched the sun set over the Rio Parana against the backdrop of Posadas.

Set atop a lush green hill, 45 minutes outside Encarnacion, Trinidad is Paraguay's best preserved Jesuit reduccion. After witnessing the culmination of La Liga with some gardeners in a hotel bar, we wandered around the slightly less informative ruins.

Onward bus to Ciudad del Este, slooooow, 6hrs.