'Cidade Maravilhosa'

Sunday, June 08, 2014
Rio de Janeiro, State of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
The 'Marvelous City' earned its name from early Portuguese explorers, who entered the huge Guanabara Bay in January 1502 and, believing it to be a river, named it Rio de Janeiro. Thanks to sugar plantations and the slave trade, their new colony developed into an important settlement and, boosted by the gold rush of the 18th-century, replaced Salvador as the capital.

The 1920s to 1950s were Rio's golden age, when it became an exotic destination for international high society . But by the time the capital was moved to Brasilia in 1960, Rio was already grappling with problems that continue to this day, especially the number of urban poor living in favelas and the widening gap between the have's and have-not's.

However, flanked by gorgeous mountains, white-sand beaches and verdant rainforests fronting deep-blue sea, Rio de Janeiro occupies one of the most spectacular settings of any city in the world. We spent a week drinking in this intoxicating tropical cocktail. These are the highlights (in no particular order!):

* Feeling at home in the heart of Lapa with Maria, our favourite 'carioca'.
* Climbing 'Escadaria Selaron', over 200 steps with more than 2000 ceramic tiles from 120 countries.
* Reaching the summit of Pao de Acucar for sunset views across Botafogo Bay.
* Witnessing last-minute preparations and riot police training outside the Maracana.
* Meandering the cobbled streets of the bohemian neighborhood, Santa Teresa.
* Imagining Carnaval time in a deserted Sambodromo.
* Bowing at the feet of Cristo Redentor as we took in the fantastic city and beach views against a bright blue sky.
* Avoiding anti-FIFA protests on the opening day of the World Cup.
* Soaking up the sun with a coconut on Ipanema Beach.
* Enjoying Brazil's 3-1 victory over Croatia in a packed Copacabana beach-bar.
* Spotting Danny Mills and Danny Murphy in a coffee shop.
* Supporting England in the FIFA FanFest whilst making Italian friends.
* Believing that England could still go all the way.
* Dancing the Samba in Lapa.
* Strolling along the impressive 'international bear promenade' in Leme.
* Sampling traditional dishes, including 'feijoada' - rice with beans and beef stew and 'carne seca' - dried meat with spices and cheese.

We were left punch-drunk on paradise and caipirinhas. It was indeed 'maravilhosa'.

Onward bus to Ouro Preto, via Belo Horizonte, 9 hours.


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