Came to Tonala specifically for the market days. It's one of the biggest in the country, with most of the handcrafts made locally. It covers about 3 miles of streets, with the average vendor frontage of 8 ft, two rows down a street, with about 4 ft between facing vendors. So about 2,000 to 4,000 vendors. Again, pics are just not good enough to really give an accurate impression of the whole thing. Think flea markets really jammed together. It feels like 10,000 vendors and 100,000 shoppers! With 4 ft of space, people make two columns, one in each direction. But what happens when someone stops in front of a booth, on each side? There's a lot twisting and waiting trying to get by people. And some of them, and even some vendors, don't shower often enough! I should have taken more pics, but I was leery of getting into people's faces. I don't know squat about arts and crafts, so I can't tell you just how good the deals are. I took a smattering of pictures, but the offerings are mostly pottery and glass, some woodworking, and a lot of imported junk.
Food vendors probably make up 20% of the booths. They make just about everything mexican (except gourmet dishes). I'm ashamed to say I've yet to try street food, something I was really looking forward to. The problem is not with the food; it's my inability to know how or what to order. The market environment is not the right time to try these good people's patience. Anyway it's just my first week. I'll get around to it (probably in just a couple days)!
Walked around for a couple hours, then went to breakfast, at a restaurant. I ordered Muelletes (see, I'm trying). The waiter couldn't explain what they were (no inglese). My translator said 'muffins'. These were 4 in. pieces of french type bread, sliced in half, topped with beans and cheese (probably mozzarella); not bad for breakfast. And they had american type coffee (no idea what it was, but it tasted just like the regular stuff we usually drink). Cost: $5. Sit down restaurants (not diners and such) are more for the well to do, so are a little pricey, but still less than home for what you get, and tipping is cheaper (generally 10%).
Walked the streets for a couple more hours.
The pic of the antiques is for real. No reproductions here. The guy tried to clean them up some, but these are the real deal (saw imitations at another vendor). Didn't know some of this stuff was still around, outside of Hollywood studios prop warehouses.
Got turned around a lot; streets start out with one name and then down the road it's something else, not to mention that less than half the street corners have signs. And some are blocked off for construction, or a church, or a park. No detailed maps of the area available. The net has most of the streets, but only a few are named. Walked some streets, or at least parts of them, up to four times. Got tired and frustrated, so I went back to my room and took a nap!
Needed a sim card (local) for my phone, and Avodart. Went in search of these. Tonala is one of the poorer parts of Guadalajara. Most of the stores are mom and pop type places. Couldn't find a sim card. I found on the net what seemed to be a couple of larger drug stores (never know what you're going to get from a hole-in-the-wall pharmacy), but couldn't find them (remember the problems trying to find the right streets).
So now it's dinner time. Unable to find what looked like a decent restaurant, I went back to the one I knew. Had the Pollo Veracruzano: chicken breast smothered in peppers and onions. Again, tasty. Cost: $9 (with tip, remember). I don't add in the drinks, because that would throw the pricing off for those who choose not to imbibe (see, if I can come up with words like that, I'm not drinking too much...?) Cocktails or wine (house) usually less than $4 (before tip - varies according to how tipsy you get).
Back at my room; still no internet. Read a little. Went to bed.
Tonala market
Thursday, August 20, 2015
Tonalá, Jalisco, Mexico
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