China Town - Grant St & surrounds

Thursday, November 21, 2013
San Francisco, California, United States
Got off the cable car just before Union Sq so that we can walk through Chinatown.

However last night the girls said go and have a look at Teuscher at Sutter St just before the Grant St Chinatown Gates.

It was a look but don’t touch (buy). You see a 12 oz box of assorted truffles cost US$ 69.50, 12 pieces of champagne truffles cost US $ 36.50. Over US $3 per truffle which are imported all the way from Switzerland.

I had read before about this walking tour so Pam sent the text of the link to me so that I could follow it. So armed with map in hand off we went.

http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/city-guides/san-francisco-walking-tour-1/

So why pay for a guide when you have a route to follow and can deviate and stop when one wants to?

So we more or less followed the below route. (If I have the energy later, I may put the photos with the correct paragraph but for now this will have to do. They are more or less in the order of how the sights were seen and followed.)

A tourist attraction since the 1860s, San Francisco's Chinatown hosts one of the largest Chinese communities outside of Asia. Grant Avenue is the district's main vein, but the adjacent streets and alleys abound with history and culture.

Start your tour at the intersection of Bush Street and Grant Avenue, where you'll find the (1) Chinatown Gate. Dragons slither across the top and traditional four dogs stand guard at the sides of this ceremonial gateway, designed by architect Clayton Lee in 1970.

Continue up Grant Avenue for two blocks, past the colorful cluster of shops selling knickknacks galore, to (2) Old Saint Mary's Cathedral(www.oldsaintmarys.org). Dedicated in 1854, the city's first Catholic cathedral was built from granite quarried in China and bricks that journeyed around Cape Horn from New England.

Across the street and kitty corner from Saint Mary's, the (3) Sing Chong and Sing Fat buildings were built soon after the 1906 earthquake and demonstrate the fanciful architecture of the time (notice the pagoda-like towers).

Continue along Grant Avenue to (4) Chinatown Kite Shop(www.chinatownkite.com), which sells a zany, zoo-like collection of flying critters: butterflies, dragonflies, fairies, owls, even Sponge Bob. 

Across the street, (5) Eastern Bakery (http://easternbakery.com) claims to be the oldest bakery in Chinatown (since 1924), but their pastries are fresh. Try a lotus golden yolk mooncake.

Hang a left on Clay Street and then a right on (6) Waverly Place, called "the street of the painted balconies" for the buildings' vibrant facades. The street was formerly nicknamed "15 Cent Street" because you could get a haircut here for a nickel and a dime; today trims start at $6.

About halfway down Waverly Place, look for a little yellow sign reading (7) "Tin How Temple." Climb three flights of stairs to find the oldest Chinese temple in the U.S. (founded in 1852). Beneath a ceiling glimmering with golden lanterns and amid smoky ribbons of incense, locals pray to Tin How, the goddess of heaven and sea. (And it was no photos inside)

Continue back to Clay Street and hoof it up the hill to the (8) Chinese Historical Society of America Museum (www.chsa.org). Inside the 1932 former YWCA building, historic photographs and artifacts document the lives of Chinese immigrants in the U.S. (which we didn't walk to)

Head back down Clay Street to (9) Stockton Street and turn left. The next few blocks serve as the center of Chinatown's commerce. Step inside the bustling shops to see barrels brimming with knotty ginseng, shelves lined with traditional herbal remedies, and windows strung with glistening roasted ducks dangling by their necks.

Turn right at Jackson Street and right again at Ross Alley. Follow your nose to the (10) Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company to sample a freshly baked wafer while you watch two women fold cookies around fortunes at a remarkable rate.

Go back to Jackson Street, turn right, and then turn right again onto Grant Avenue. Step into (11) Ten Ren Tea Company (www.tenren.com) for a free sample of one of their more than 50 tea varieties, or try a sweet tapioca iced tea. (I think this has changed name or owners as once inside no one was interested at all in these 2 tourists)

Refreshment in hand, walk down to Washington Street and turn left to see the(12) Old Chinese Telephone Exchange (now called the United Commercial Bank), distinguishable by its dramatic peaked roofs and pagoda style. This 1909 building once served as an office for telephone operators who spoke five Chinese dialects and knew their customers' phone numbers by heart.

Walk a few more steps to finish your tour at (13) Portsmouth Square. On this spot in 1846, Captain John B. Montgomery of the U.S.S. Portsmouth raised the American flag in San Francisco for the first time. Today the square is a gathering place for friends young and old.
 
So this was how we spent 3 hours 15 mins in Chinatown just wandering and taking in the sights, sounds, tastes and smells!


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