Given we hadn’t yet investigated Borgarnes that was our
first stop of the day and to visit the Settlement Musuem (Vikings and Tall
Stories). Icelandic tales or sagas as they call them are plentiful and quite
rare, there were a few raised eyebrows as we went around the museum and
listened to some of the tales.
Our next stop was to hike up to see a waterfall, Glymur. Now
our tour guides say it’s challenging, our Lonely Planet says leave an hour to
get up from the car park and we say very interesting indeed. You definitely
need more than an hour, the track is terribly rough and you have to cross a few
streams before going through a dark cave and across a river by rope and
log/rock then climb steeply up a wet slippery rocky path hanging on to a rope
for dear life. We had a great time but it’s very challenging and not for the
feint hearted.
To get to the waterfall we had to go the long way around the
coast, but what’s the fun of direct through a sea tunnel there’s no view in
that.
Even though we were quite tired after this we headed on to
Pingvellir as this was sort of on the way and easier to do today than retrace
our steps from the campsite.
This is the
old Parliament site and was a very important place at the beginning of Icelands
time. Yet again it was a lot of rocky walking, actually it sits between two
tectonic plates, anyway we gave it a good go and are now totally
shattered. We didn’t even arrive at camp
in time for dinner so we missed wine o’clock and any alcohol with dinner. Even
more of a problem we need a shower desperately and we have no underwear for
tomorrow so desperately need a washing machine (few and far between in
Iceland).
The washing machine was very busy so Penny was up at 7am
this morning to get in first. The washing was done and nearly dried by the time
we got on the bus to Reykjavik at 9.15am. We had a guided tour for a couple of
hours and then were left to our own devices for 5 hours. All of our colleagues
agreed that we’d had enough time and could actually have been picked up after
maybe 2 hours. It wasn’t helped by the fact that a few of the museums were
closed but even so the centre is quite small, the shops are all the same
(tourist tat at stupid prices) and there really wasn’t a lot to see.
The
majority of the city has been built in the last 30 years so history and nice
buildings were definitely lacking.
Can you believe that up to 2009 the tourist numbers visiting
Iceland were up to 200k but since the volcanic eruption this has increased rapidly
and this year they are expecting the number to hit 2.4m. For a country whose
population is only 300k that is absolutely phenomenal and as you can imagine
they are desperately unprepared. The area around Reykjavik is definitely more
touristy and the shops, cafes etc are all open but tourism is definitely still
in it’s infancy.
We travelled 70km north from camp today to visit Gulfoss
that is probably the most spectacular waterfall that we’ve seen so far. Per the
signs the force of it at some points is more than the Niagara falls. There were
plenty of Americans around telling us that Niagara was definitely better.
After this we visited the town of Geysir where we were
watching the hot springs sprouting water and steam fountains at regular
intervals. Stokkir the one that sprouts the most frequent was on top form for
us and went off maybe 6 times in the 20 minutes we visited when officially it
should go off about every 8-10 mins.
Penny got a great photo, she had her camera poised with
finger on the button ready to take when she heard the rumble and she actually
managed to do that whilst jumping a few foot in the air herself as it made her
jump out her skin.
Mark just stood in the background laughing and was amazed
when the photo was actually good.
Next stop was Lake Laugervatn where we found a beautiful
spot on the edge to have our lunch. At the point of parking we didn’t realise
we were next to the Fontana spa but we soon realised when we were watching
people come out of the spa and walk into the lake. The spa was between 30-40
degrees and the lake was 15 degrees so nobody hung about and we had a few
laughs over lunch.
We looked at the price, thought it was a rip off but went in
anyway and had a few enjoyable hours in the 3 steam rooms, sauna and 4
different temperature large hot tubs whilst watching all the activity on the
lake.
Final stop of the day was at Skaholt to look at the church
and archaeological dig. The original church here was the oldest in Iceland and
the dig was to uncover the ruins of that and the school that it later became.
The dig was done about 10 years ago and is now somewhat overgrown which was a
little disappointing. The new church was also not great although the mosaic
tapestry behind the altar was good.
There was also a museum in the church but
we refrained as we’d learned enough from our guidebook.
We just made it back to camp in time for our Icelandic
culture talk and dinner. Mark had the lamb but Penny was brave and had fish pie
which was rice pudding with pineapple a couple of prawns and a hint of cod.
We woke to a miserable day so thought we’d go to the
Hvergerdi to the supermarket and look at the 2008 earthquake exhibition before
we decided what to do for the rest of the day. At lunchtime it was still
raining heavy and Mark wasn’t feeling well so we headed back to camp where it
was beautiful sunshine. As there was nobody else at camp we took advantage of
using the washing machines and then Penny went off for a walk around town and
found a charity shop where she bought for £1 the Iceland puzzle she’d been
eyeing up but too tight to buy at £25. After a look at the river and different
supermarket, she spotted the French motorhomes (a rival tour group) in town so
rushed back to save our colleagues pitches.
2025-05-22