Haines, Alaska, United StatesHaines
It takes a long time to get on the
Ferry
Ok so when Gine a week ago looked into
the ferry, she said we book as the ferry only goes 3x a week. That was a good
choice: when we talked to the Mexican couple in Carcross they wanted to take
the same ferry – but they already got a quote of 100 US$ more than us and only
a maybe there is a spot available. After we did the online booking we got an
email back from Jeff thanking us that we are booking the ferry and he only
wanted to confirm that we really want to go (by the way we already paid with
Visa). We also got told that we should be at the ferry station 2-3 hours before
leaving.
So on time around 2 hours before we
are at the ferry station: it’s complicated you go in and have to pick up your
tickets, then you go in Line and we got a HNS for Haines (as the same ferry
also goes to Juneau).
Ok so before we went into the Parking
lot we did a little detour and made a pictures in front of that super weird
Metal as well the Camper under the Cruiseship – when Paul got told to move and
as we took the picture near the train we got told that is even worth.
Then we wait and see the little ferry
arriving, we are super amazed on how many vehicles can come out of this tiny
ferry. And then the loading begins, they had notes on how many truck/camper,
cars with trailers and Motorhomes they have and with a walkie talkie the lady
gets told what she should send in next, and all the big vehicles have to back
into the ferry sidewise and then turn to go in line – wow!!! The guys are
really good they walk near you and say a bit left a bit right straight a bit
more. Once finally our time came we go in forward and have to turn around to go
in near another RV – I would not thought that it is possible that we can go in
so tight. It’s like a puzzle.
The Amazing Ferry ride
With a half hour delay we are finally
on the way and the ferry ride is incredible, we did find on the upper deck they
had lounge chairs – perfect for Paul and their you lay back and enjoy the sun
and the view. It was super cool as we
were docked near the cruise ships and after going out, the ferry turns around
and we get the most amazing views on the cruise ships and Skagway and the
mountains – it was incredible: we saw waterfalls, amazing mountains and the
supercool canal. It was so amazing – that is so incredible. I think I know why
people come back to Alaska. And as we turn into Haines more new and amazing
views open up.
Laundy and Shopping in Haines
Ok we are one hour behind schedule –
first we go to the laundy: get quarters from 20 $ - I think now we have enough
for the rest of our trip. As we put the laundry in the wash we go shopping –
it’s like multitasking. We discover the town is not so big there is a main
street and another street. We find IGA and go in and as it is another super hot
day we decided to have a cold supper. We check out the next supper market and
find there some yummy buns but had to head back to the first one to get the
ham. Back all goes in the dryer and it is a quarter to six…. That means late
supper – we also talked to a local guy and then after most of it is dry we head
out.
Eagles at the Chilkat River
We went down Mud Bay Road and found a pull-out
where already someone else is overnight staying too, that makes us feel better
and the best: we are right at the Chilkat Inlet and from out spot we can see
the eagles sitting at the waters edge – the view on the snow-capped mountains
is super amazing – the sun is shining it is amazing. Alaska is truly an
incredible place.
Haines – the Alaskan Town:
- We are still in Tlinglit country (they came here around 8000BC), in 1741 they made the first contact with the Russions and in 1774 the Spanish Explorer arrived
- In 1794 Capt George Vancouver named the it the Lynn Canal
- Haines was founded in 1881 by the Presbyterian church at an invitation from the Tlingit Indians and here was the first church in Alaska built
- Here was the first Army base in Alaska: In 1903 they build Fort Steward and it was fully garrisoned by 1905 in a response to a border dispute with Canada
- In 1943 the highway connector to the Alaskan Highway got built
- 1948 one of the Army veterans starts the first haines-Skagway-Juneau ferry transport with the vessel Chilkoot
- They call it the Adventure Capital of Alaska: here you can find your own definition of wild
- Here you are in a true Alaskan town with 2500 poeple
Breakfast at Chilkat State Park
We woke up to some clouds, also Gine
discovered that here are some green rocks – super cool. We decided to continue
down the road to the Chilkat State Park for breakfast and then we can also
check out the campsite for a possible stay. The road was a challenge: 14%
downhill, gravel and lots of holes and bumps – we went super super slow. The
Campground is a no: as it is in the forest. The Day use area had some amazing
views over glaciers with gigantic waterfalls – the green ocean – super
amazingly beautiful. For breakfast we stayed inside, as it was super windy. The
way up was even more challenging and we went up in 1st gear.
View on the wild Salmon Cannery
Our next stop was a viewpoint to look
over at the Cannery and enjoy more of the amazing views on the ocean.
Should we stay here at the end of the road??
In Haines we went right and all the
way to the end of the paved road where there was a super nice spot and we
decided this will be perfect for a overnight stay we can even watch the cruise
ships. That settled we are ready to explore. On the way to the town, we stopped
quickly at the Portage cove Rec Site – which sadly is not for RV’s only walk
in…
Looking for Cruise ships at the Dock
Coming to the big parking lot where
the cruise shuttle stop, we stopped too to enjoy the view, walk out on the dock
and look back on the town: which looks really pretty from here and check out
the small cruiseships.
We lost our cat!!!!
Back at the truck we discovered there
is no Mandy. Not in the front and not in the back. We look in every niche we
could think about under all the seats and she was gone. We worried that she
jumped out of the window – as it was partly opened, got scared and run. We both
took sweets and for the next 1.5 hours walked around the perimeter called Mandy
and shook the Temptation bag – nothing. We then drove back to the Rec site:
same thing there we walked and called and called and walked – nothing. Back to
the end of the road: we called and called – nothing. Back to the dock and we go
for walks again – we ask several people if they have seen a cat – nobody saw
her. We thought that is the end of our Mandy.
Keeping up around the library
Let’s do the shopping, filling up gas,
and then head to the library to get some proper internet so we can fill out the
Arrive Can App, check the Bank, check for our Tax referral (which meant Paul
had to do some phone calls)
Then back to the dock again: we make
coffee and walk around and call for Mandy again – nothing.
Re-visiting all spots and we found
Mandy again!!!!
By now 5 hours later we really
wondered when did we see her last: when we left this morning, where was it that
Gine checked in the back? When did Paul see her when he closed the window? We
really wondered where and what we did. We decided to drive back again to the
last 2 stops we made and try again – and otherwise stay overnight at the dock,
as we really thought that is where we lost her. Back at the site we want to
stay, Paul calls Mandy and there she comes – We couldn’t believe it – I think a
miracle happened that we got our kitty back. And we learned always windows
closed, always checking when leaving if she is in the car.
Viewpoint at Portage Cove Rec Site
Back towards town we stopped at the
Portage Cove Rec Site again, as we discovered on our earlier Mandy search there
is a short path to a viewpoint: and there was a super nice view – by now it
gets a big complicated because there are so may nice viewpoints.
Shower at Fort Seward
Next stop the old Fort, we drove up
towards the Parade ground and checked out some burned down ruined foundations.
Then walked up on the Parade ground with some great views down into the harbor
– over to the nice totem poles and the long house. Then Gine said if there are
so nice bathrooms, Let’s use them and Paul was faster and bored and walked to
the back and discovered a shower!!!! Ok, decision made we need a shower:
changing into our swimsuits and under the freezing cold water we went – no clue
where the water comes from, but you literally get a frozen head. Even worth was
the shower me down part – we are now fresh and clean again. I may should
mention we showered right near the historic barracks.
The next part of the Fort Exploring we
decided to do by truck and slowly drive around the parade ground: the houses
are all privately owned (the old firehall is at the moment for sale) and are
big, very nicely restored -the officers really had a nice place to stay. We
stopped at the top near the flag pole for more amazing views, saw the house
with the totem and cannon in front, drove by the hospital, down the Soapsud
Alley. This is clearly not the most exciting Fort we ever visited – it is a
historic grass parade ground with historic houses around.
Quickly what is left to see:
- Soapsude Alley: some cute houses where the wives of non commissioned officer lived and did the laundry
- A big white building for the Fort Moccissary
- The burned down company barracks
- The old Fort Hospital: an impressive structure, which had 2 doctors at all times, as they were allowed to also take on private patients they got their full salaray and another one of top
- The house with the totem and the cannon was the headquarter building and post office: the cannen is from 1861
- The officers’ row at the top for the captains and lieutnants are super nice and big houses (by the way they have a fool stone basement), more fancy officers building on the right side
- The Fire Hall with the tower and a la France soda pumper
- The guardhouse had 4 cells – he also had to raise and lower the flag and fire the morning and evening salute
- The big house near our showers were the barracks for the enlisted men – half of them lived there
- Parade ground: with sic acreas where the troops drilled and morning muster and evening taps were
There is also some history around the
fort:
- It is one of the earliest military bases in Alaska at the missionary settlement in Haines
- Named after William H Seward the US Secretary of State – he is the one who purchased Alaska from Russia
- At one time they had 241 enlisted men and 14 officers here in the 1920s
- Because it was so primitive and remote the US Army qualified it as a foreign duty post: you got double credits for each year working – even the work was not difficult. The main duty was fire watch
- The officers had a good life as each one got an enlisted men to serve as his orderly
- One of the biggest challenge was the boredom: so they went hunting, fishing hiking, had weekly dances, basketball games
- During WWI and WWII it was a training base for Alaska recruits, and during WWII also a recreation center for troops wo served in the North Pacific
- After WWII it got decommissioned (they even relocated the military cemetery to sitka)
- 5 WWII veterans and their families bought the 85 buildings and 400 acres unseen what is now known as the Fort Seward: those cheechakos (newcomers to Alaska) mostly college educated Easterners were determined to make it work
- In 1972 Port Chilkoot became part of Haines and was designated as a national historic site
The beautiful river at Chilkot Lake
It’s getting late in the day – but
maybe (as we found our cat again) we can still continue on towards Canada
tomorrow, and as we got told that the Bears are maybe coming in the evening
when it gets cooler – we headed to the Chilkot Lake State Park. A beautiful
drive along the Fjord and then an even more amazing river – we can really see
how the bears are coming here – but there is still a lot of water and we are
still early in the season. The lake is beautiful but the campground is in the
forest and we decided we want sunshine and a view – so back towards town.
Supper at the Picture viewpoint
On the way we discovered this super
cool viewpoint with picnic tables and hoped we can stay there for the night, ok
it says no overnight parking – nevertheless it is a great spot for supper. Sunshine
– seeing the cruise ships leaving and a wonderful supper right on time
A sunset at the free “campsite”
We headed back to the “here we lost
Mandy” Spot and set up for the night: it was still nice and warm and sunny:
perfect to sit outside and enjoy the view and read a book. It is so hot that at
one point Gine even had to sit in the shade!!! We have an amazing evening here.
Later we even get joined by another fellow camper.
Clouds in the Sky
As we are already used to we have some
clouds in the sky… no big deal, I’m sure they will go away, like nearly every
day. Before heading out we stop to check if they have fritters – no such luck
and drive up and down the beautiful main street to admire the old houses
The movie town Dalton City
Yes here in Haines they were filming a
movie and for this they needed a little town: We decided to stop there and
check it out, it is super cute: with a barn, merry-go-round and a wheel. And
then the one little street with the fake house fronts in cute colors and boardwalks.
It actually looks like that some of them have a store inside, we were only not
sure if they are open. It was super cute. I think we have to watch the move
Wild fang (by the way it is a Walt Disney Movie
- It should resemble Skagway and Dalton City) for the Move
- After the movie, the buildings got donated by Walt Disney but needed to be moved and a retired logger moved them with logging equipment: 18 houses found a new home at the Fairground
- and then got the name Dalton City after the explorer and entrepreneur Jack Dalton who built the Dalton Trail in 1882/83 starting in Haines and going 246 miles to Fort Selkirk on the Yukon river.
- Wild fang is the story about a boy looking for his father in the Yukon with his dog wild Fang
Good Bye Haines
2025-05-22