This morning was a lazy start after a very hectic day yesterday, and we strolled round the old part of the city just admiring the buildings. We started at the market, a beautiful building in its own right as it is highly decorated with tiles. Inside is just as impressive as much of the interior is also tiled, and the goods on display just added to the colourful atmosphere.
There were many stalls with tomatoes, oranges and other fruits, all beautifully displayed; stalls selling Serrano ham were everywhere – a Spanish delicacy but not one I particularly enjoy (not that I'd say so to a Valencian!). There were also very striking-looking fish on some, one with the fiercest fish I have ever seen baring its teeth at passers-by, and even the mushroom stall looked interesting.
Also wandering round the market were a couple dressed in traditional costume, she with a lovely embroidered dress and a silver mantilla comb in her hair, and he with headscarf, brightly decorated waistcoat and the long white socks and straw shoes typical of the area.
We saw more evidence of Valencian costume as we crossed one of the main streets – a group of girls looking absolutely stunning in lace and embroidery over huge petticoats, with elaborately coiffeured hair and gold or silver combs and bindings. We soon realised just how much money these things cost – a silver comb was in a shop sale for €125, and just the brocade material for the under-layer of the dress cost several hundred euros.
Continuing on our way, we went to have a look at one of the oldest churches in the city, that of San Juan del Hospital. It was built in 1261 by King Jaime 1 and although the nave is quite plain, there are several wonderful painted Gothic murals in side chapels. Unfortunately we couldn’t go in as there was a wedding on, but when we were on our way out we encountered the bridal party and the bride turned out to be English.
The surroundings are beautiful, with shaded plant-filled courtyards and niches with statues and paintings, so we contented ourselves with wishing a happy marriage to the bride and went on our way to the cathedral. As we’d been inside before, we just walked through the Basilica of the patron saint of Valencia and were obviously not the only people to admire it, as it was FULL of visitors taking pictures of the wonderful altar & screen. Round the back was much more peaceful, with the pool showing the reflection of both buildings and a much more tranquil place than the Plaza de La Vierge round the front.
It was almost time to go to the station for our train back to Benicassim, but we paused in the Plaza for a coffee and a final photo of the 4 of us. The Estacio del Nord is another lovely building, again covered in tiles and with possibly the most beautiful booking hall in Europe – it was a pleasure to buy tickets there.
An uneventful hour’s journey took us through the Spanish countryside with views of distant hills and houses and a good view of the castle at Sagunto. That evening 8 of us dined in the camp restaurant as there was musical entertainment (hmmmm) but at €11.95 for 3 courses including half a bottle of wine it was good value. It had been quite a tiring couple of days but worth every minute – we had wonderful hospitality with built-in tour guides and thoroughly enjoyed it.
Exploring the city
Saturday, October 10, 2015
Valencia, Valencian Country, Spain and Canary Islands
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