We had decided not to move to camp 3, as we have all we need here. In spite of trains and traffic noise, we sleep. However, when I did get up at 1 am, they were still playing football on the pitch next to the camp! The local caretaker brings us hot sweet black tea each morning and later if we are around.

Walked to old city centre -Sultanahmet- and noted they have speed bumps on the footpaths! Then met with Roger and Judy again and had coffee on their rooftop terrace , almost able to touch the dome of the Blue Mosque . Wandered through a bazaar, lovely stuff to buy so succumbed and bought a fabric necklace and a blue tile trivet.

Blue Mosque next, so called because all the tiles on the walls and ceiling are same blue (Iznik) as my trivet. Amazing déjà-vu. Both John and I instantly felt it as we entered the courtyard - we had been there before, in1976. When we were there before, you could walk all over and original loose rugs were on the floor. Now tourists stay behind a barrier and carpet is mass produced, but the mosque is still magnificent. Mosaic Museum next, to see the largest mosaic tiled floor anywhere, they say.

Turks are very helpful, even if they mainly want to sell you something (carpets, of course) and readily give you tips ("Hurry, mosque closes in half an hour for prayer") and directions. Many speak some English, more than we can speak Turkish! Interesting to compare Bazaar with markets in Saigon - much less pushy here . After lunch, inspected carpets - could not fail to do so - and ceramics but did not buy.

Then Aya Sofya- largest church in the world until St. Peter's was built, and 1000 years older. Now a museum and seemed bigger than St. Peter's as less decorated and darker. Noted the lean on some pillars - who needs to go to Pisa? Magnificent building; climbed up to top level, and soaked up the atmosphere. Lucky so few tourists, relatively, and those are mostly Korean.

Next another Déjà-vu. The Pudding Shop was the meeting place in the 50s and 60s of travellers going east or west, buying or selling a Kombivan or hitching a ride to Kathmandu. We were there in 1976, and it has changed but they were interested to talk to us, show us old photos and newspaper cuttings and gave us a logo shopping bag.

Then strolled the Hippodrome, sight of races and games, looked at Egyptian obelisk(stolen), "The Million" measuring column used to measure all distances in the world (but no examples of anywhere in Aus .)

Walked the back streets home, enjoying local shopping. All feels very safe and friendly. Needed at least 6 shops to purchase 10 grocery items. Then a hair cut for me in a super modern salon, now feel human again.

Bought fresh fish for dinner tomorrow at the fish market, opposite camp site, and then home for dinner.

Now Friday.
Maintenance day today - washing , cleaning and some minor repairs. Also one job I had to talk to the builder about. The sensor for the hot air system had been located where a vagrant hot air flow from the hot water system blew across it, so hot air system kept cutting out too early. Both the Boomer designer and builder were contrite and assisted with the fix.

The locals are borrowing our tools- one would expect it to be the other way around! Caretaker showed us how to use washing machine (instructions in Turkish, of course, ) and where to put up clothes line. We feel we have done justice to Istanbul and will move on tomorrow to Troy.