A Drive Through Old Cathar Country

Saturday, June 07, 2014
Olonzac, Languedoc-Roussillon, France
On Thursday we had a stop day where we regrouped ourselves,planned some future excursions,cleaned and tidied the house and read our books and sat in the sun,bliss!
We have been endeavouring to make the most of our time but it was time for a short break!
Yesterday we left the house early and headed off from Olonzac and headed towards Saissac, a typical village of the Montagne Noire,it is built in a semi circle above the joining of the Aiguebelle and the Vernassonne streams .The streets,one above the other all face exceptional scenery and great views over the Pyrenees.
The drive through the little villages is absolutely breathtaking even though it is quite overcast and windy .In this area the landscape is hallmarked and enhanced by terraces.These are known here as faisses,banquettes and bancels,these are home to chestnuts vine and olives.Built of dry stone,thousands of miles of supporting walls follow the contours of the land and are now maintained by the local villages.
In foothill villages,set away from the houses you can see lime kilns; used as a bonding agent,lime is added to the soil that was too acid.These kilns were fed with small pieces of limestone ,the fire burned for a week,kept going day and night.
Charcoal stacks can also be seen with a stone cabin beside for the charcoal maker to reside.
The charcoal was obtained from holm oak,and beech.This technique was widespread until the 18th century when black gold,coal was mined in the upper Orb Valley.
The landscape is diverse with plateaus of grasslands and moors,chestnuts,fertile valleys .Grape vines,olive groves cling to hillsides and terraces.There is garrigue scrub and pine woods
Oak trees are everywhere and we went through a village which was famous for the Truffle Oak.
Fig trees ,and Broom covers the mountainsides with its bright yellow and mimosa,originally from Australia grows very fast and is very prolific.Rosemary,thyme and lavender are also very prolific.
We arrive in Saissac and what a view!
At the southern end of the village,there is a castle built on a rocky outcrop .
The Castle Of Saissac,which is one of the largest in the area,was rebuilt after the crusade against the Cathars at the end of the 13th and 14th centuries.
In the 16 th century,Renaissance style additions were made.
At the foot of the fortress the ruins of the former walled village of Saissac remain.This village was at the centre of a large network of shaded pathways and was protected by the Toulouse gate.
We wander through the ruins and then walk back ,up a very steep hill to the village.We wandered through the narrow streets and admired and took photographs of the corbelled half timbered houses,the fountains,the medieval gate and the defence towers.
From here we head to Lastours,where you can see 4 castles,located at 300 meters altitude in a landscape spiked with cypress trees.These castles,which have protected the Cabardes area since the High Middle Ages,overlook the Orbiel stream.
For a long time these fortresses protected the mines of the Montagne Noir.We then headed for Villeneuve Minervois,a village typical of the region with its shady boulevards and Plane trees.
From here we head off to Peyriac Minervois then Azille and back to Olonzac.
We are stunned at how quiet it is,we take the back roads to the villages but they are so quiet ,you never see a soul .All establishments are closed between 12 and 2 or 2 .30 so you cannot get a coffee or a smile as there is no one around.
Toilets are a rarity also,so we have exercised great bladder control but we have seen several gentleman relieving themselves quite publicly,against walls ,monuments and fences,mon dieu!
Last night we met up with our Engilsh friends ,and had dinner at a wonderful little restaurant then went back to a street music concert until the late hours.
Today is cool and overcast and we might take a walk around Lake Jouarres this afternoon.This lake is very close to us near Homps.
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