Intrepid beach explorer!
Saturday, December 12, 2015
Crucecita, Oaxaca, Mexico
Going to make a major effort to get to every beach I can, by land.
Over the hill, and through the woods...
Started out on foot, as usual. Nice roads, but a long way between beaches. Doesn't appear that far on a map, but walking up and down hills in heat even at 2mph can seem a lot farther. I decided it's worth paying $3 for a cab to save an hour walking.
Skipped over a couple small beaches that were a long way off the main road. Couldn't find access to the next one, then walked up and down and up and down and up and down, and I think a couple more ups and downs, and we're not talking small hills either, to the next beach.
Took a cab to the next beach: Playa Maguey. Was greeted by more than a dozen guys offering to get you an umbrella, take you out on a boat ride, and more.
Walked a little farther and saw this zig-zagging stairway down to the beach. Get down there and there are more 'salesmen'.
Been walking for a few hours now: time to quench my thirst! Sat down here for a Piña Colada.
Climbed back up the hill. There were three cabs hanging out. Got in one; asked him how much to the next beach, which wasn't very far; should have been about $1.50, he said $3. I asked him how much back to town, he said $4, which is a pretty standard rate: it was about three times as far as the next beach. On the way, I asked how much to go to Bocana, the farthest beach, he said $8. I had him drop me off at my hotel. I needed rest and more money.
Bought a drink. Took a shower. Put on fresh clothes. Grabbed some more cash from my stash. Hit the road. Took some pics on the way to a major taxi stop (across from the bus station). Figured on asking several drivers what they charge for a ride to Bocana.
First taxi I asked wanted $4.50. This was an older guy with a somewhat beat up taxi: probably more hard up for money; or maybe just more fair. It was quite a ways to this beach, so I gave him $6.
Got out. Walked to the beach. Black sand, and small beach.
On the map, the beach looked a lot larger. The last photo shows more beach beyond the rock point, but there's no way to get there.
And then there are always interesting things to see:
No taxi in sight, and didn't expect to see one for a while, so I'm walking.
Before i could find a way down to the next beach, I ran into this high security area, guard and all: no signs, couldn't see a thing beyond the foliage either, guard even had a patch covering his company name (he didn't look military or law enforcement). When that fence ended, the one for Secrets began.
Just beyond the Secrets entrance, some road workers were taking a break. There are always those who are curious about foreigners, so we exchanged a few pleasantries. Then I, kiddling, asked them to lift me over the fence so I could go to the beach. One guy says 'You can do it on your own by following the path by the dumpsters just down the road' (all in Spanish, of course). It pays to chat up the locals (although some have already steered me wrong.)
Got down to the beach, and what do I see? Some enterprising young men with a cooler full of iced down drinks and beer, bottles of liquor, umbrellas and chairs, hammocks and jewelry and sunglasses and probably more I didn't notice, all for sale or rent. Imagine having to lug all that heavy stuff up and down that hill! After the walking and climbing I'd already done, an ice cold brew sounded pretty good. Walked up and down the beach drinking it.
Too many photos - do the slide show thing.
Even though all beaches are public (up to 20 meters or something), these high priced resorts try to claim them all for themselves by effectively cutting off access; but if you can get to it, you can use it.
Went all the way back up to the road, and started looking for my next 'secret entrance'. About 30 minutes later, there was a dirt road going off the main road.
It led to this sand pit. There's no way beyond this unless you have a dune buggy or a motorcycle. But beyond it is a huge beach; maybe they're saving this one for the future. And beyond this, if you climb the rocks (not that difficult) on the right (west) end of the beach, there's another beach almost as big. On the far right end of this beach, from the rocks, you can see both beaches and the far left of the Secrets beach (way out there). And check out the steep and winding trail leading up out of there.
Too many photos: you know what to do.
Came to another fence, worked my way around it. The hill behind it wasn't very high. Climbed to the top, and there was this nice road that ended right there: very nice of them to make things easier on me. It's a street that doesn't have houses on it yet.
Followed the streets around to where the beach should be, but no access: couldn't even see it. This is a gated community. (pics below) Luckily, security didn't blink an eye when I walked out.
There's one more beach area to see, but I'll do that tomorrow. I'm beat and getting hungry. Flagged down a cab, and paid $1.70 to take me to my hotel. Showered, rested, put on fresh clothes and went to dinner.
The salad was really good. I was hungry and knew the main course would probably be awhile, so I ordered a salad: waited almost as long for the salad as for an entree. The waiter's body odor was off-putting. This is the third, and last, time I try octopus: it's just not for me. Friends and workers (a few) walked in and out of the restaurant with t-shirts (not clean looking).
This place is rated #1 by TripAdvisor for Crucecita. I've followed TripAdvisor recommendations before and been disappointed. Seems to me the only places they recommend are those who cater to foreigners and are friendly with them. I'm sure many of the reviewers know nothing about quality food; they just like being catered to. Same goes for lodging. From now on, I won't be looking at any search results from tripadvisor.
Read. Then sleep.
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