Silver and wood.

Friday, June 19, 2015
Dølemo, Aust-Agder, Norway
We were rudely awakened by a rythmnic crashing noise and
  realised that behind the trees across the oh so peaceful river was a quarry, and we could hear some sort of crusher at work.

We drove the short distance to Kongsberg (King's Mountain) as luck would have it, passing an LPG station on the way in.
We found a pump-out station at a Shell garage, and when I asked the man behind the counter if he knew where we could park a MH for a few hours he said we could park there for 3 hrs for 20 NOK ( about  £1.70!)   A footpath under the railway led straight into the town.

We liked Kongsberg very much.  The peaceful River Lagen we overnighted by, storms through the town over a horse-shoe shaped weir and down a series of rapids.     
Silver in a very pure form was found in Kongsberg in 1623 , and King Christian 1V sponsored its development ( and became very rich!)   By the 1750's it was the largest town in Norway.
The silver works closed in 1805, but by this time the town was the site of the Royal Mint. This has been privatised, but is still a major employer to this day.

As in another mining town, at Roros, the mine owners showed off their great wealth and influence by building a big church.   This Church was opened in 1761, was built of 4 million bricks and is the largest Baroque church in Norway.
Inside it is completely lined with painted wood, with gilding, paintings and faux marble effects.

It looks very much like a theatre, with a very ornate, glass-fronted Royal Box.  The pulpit is above the altar, to hammer home the point that the priest was expressing God's will.

The seating arrangements are totally hierarchical.  Facing the pulpit is the King's box and boxes for the silver work's managers. Other mining officials sat in glass fronted enclosures. Their womenfolk sat in reserved pews on the ground floor.  The first tier of the gallery was for the Kongsberg petite bourgeoisie, the next tier for the workers, and then squeezed in at the top and the back right up to the ceiling were the 'proletariat'!

I took quite a few pictures to show the layout. We were the only ones there and could wander around at will. The church is being re-roofed and some of the windows are covered, making it seem quite dark.
The baroque organ has been restored to its original state and is supposed to be one of the best in Scandinavia and used for many recitals.

The main street is pedestrianised, leading to an attractive bridge over the river and the town has a really pleasant feel to it.
We moved on, on the E134, stoppin to look at the Heddal Stavkirke, the biggest in Norway and one of the 'top three'.
We then joined the 41 and went directly South down the very attractive valley, following a river, which widened into lakes, all the way down.
We found a good overnight spot ,high up, on a bend in the old road. This overlooked the river flowing slowly down below us. There were several places on the banks where we hoped some wildlife might come down later in the evening - perhaps a moose?

We kept a look out and at about 11pm when it was starting to get dusky ( or dimpsy) we spotted ripples on the river. We thought it might be otters, but when an animal went to the bank we thought it was too big and was perhaps a coypu?
We discovered that coypus are supposed to have been eradicated from Scandinavia and what we saw must have been a beaver.
We got out to have look but were engulfed in swarms of midges and had to beat a very hasty retreat!
I managed to take a photo, but taken through glass and almost in the dark its not brilliant, but just about identifiable.
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