We woke up at our usual time of 11am and slowly got ready before walking to get some breakfast. We asked our owner if we could rent a moped, which he said was fine but just sat there without any attempt to sort it out, so we said we would go and get the money. We came back and he showed us the pile of scrap that we could ride. It looked like it had been smashed off the ground on more than one occasion, even though our owner kept asking Andrew whether he could drive or not and whether he had a licence. The best piece of advice he gave us was that the bike was heavy and so we shouldn't press the brakes too hard or we would fall off! He told us that we could get petrol at the wooden house at the end of the road, but we pulled up outside and it was literally just a house! I went to knock on the door and a young boy appeared clearly bemused by me. A lady followed shortly after and I sheepishly asked if they sold petrol, which of course they did it was just locked away in an outside cupboard! We filled the tank and set off towards Pangkor Town on the east coast of the island. We followed the coast south until we came to 'Kota Belanda' which was a Dutch fort originally built in 1670 but recently reconstructed, so it was a little disappointing! We walked a few metres down the road to 'Batu Bersurat' which was a huge boulder that apparently had an inscription showing a child being mauled by a tiger alongside the date 1743. The boulder was underneath a canopy but surrounded by rubbish and as much as we looked and looked the only thing we saw on the boulder was graffiti! If indeed there had been an ancient inscription on the boulder nobody respected it and so it simply looked like a rubbish dump! We drove back to Pangkor Town and had a walk around the place in search of the off licence mentioned in the Rough Guide. We soon came across it, tucked amongst souvenir shop after souvenir shop selling exactly the same thing. The best deal was a bottle of Thai Song, which was close enough to SangSom for our liking. We got back on the moped and continued north, bypassing the small Sri Pathirakaliaman Hindu temple and a huge incinerator surrounded by the biggest, industrial pile of rubbish I have ever seen that also had the worst smell. I couldn't quite believe that such a small island like Pangkor could produce so much waste that they had built an incinerator and yet they couldn't keep on top of the rubbish. We actually saw quite a few local people carrying rubbish whilst driving a moped and then just dumping it on the road side. We reached the far north of the island by coming to a dead end, so had to turn around and take the road inland. We passed the tiny airport and numerous buildings that had jut been left to crumble. It really seems as though Pulau Pangkor was once an ideal holiday spot but now, for some reason I can't quite fathom, it is a ghost island lacking any atmosphere or general appeal. We reached the Lin Ye Kong Chinese temple which was at the very end of Coral Bay. It certainly didn't feel like we were entering a Chinese Temple, as a poor replica of Donald Duck and Mickey Mouse met us at the entrance! The whole place was built out of concrete and painted mainly red and yellow. There was a very small shrine that was discrete in comparison to the surrounding theme park! There was a fairytale door and giant concrete turtle and the odd bench placed so that you could, admittedly, look out to sea. I think we have yet again see too many beautiful places so far that we are somewhat disappointed by the next thing.

We decided to stay on the beach for the rest of the afternoon and it was pretty much deserted as it was coming to the end of the Public Holiday . Andrew was too restless to just sunbathe so he did his usual wandering around the place. On the way back to our room we bought ourself a pot noodle bowl in the hope that it would be more filling than a pot! We chilled out in our room and ate before having a walk back to the shop later to buy a mixer for our Thai Song. There were so many hornbill birds flying low overhead and we saw a couple trying to eat the fruit from a cashew nut tree. We found it strange that they came so close to us as when we have encountered them before they seemed a little scared and flew away. However, we then noticed a sign that read 'Hornbill Feeding 6:30pm' so it became clear why they all gathered together at one particular spot. We enjoyed a good Thai Song and coke, although the smell of the Thai Song wasn't too appealing. I didn't feel tired at all and so couldn't get to sleep until after 3am, which is very unlike me.