Incident at the Argentinian Border

Monday, January 26, 2015
Zapala, Neuquén, Argentina
Not a bad night sleep all and all. Couldn't get even a coffee at the camp site so after a brief walk to the lake we packed up and returned to town.

Tom - like a dork I packed the bike on the center stand and as it was on soft ground when I pulled it off it fell away from me, and once more was on the deck,Tracy had already walked up the path to avoid riding on the sand so i was left alone to try and lift the bike up fully loaded. After three attempts gave up and sort help, fortunately there was a guy 3 camp sites down and after some sign language he got the message walked up to the bike and lifted it like it was a bicycle, not only did i feel like a dork but a feeble one, must get back onto the press-up routine.

 The road out of the park takes us through groves of monkey puzzle trees, park created specifically to protect their habitat.
The view of the volcano in full morning sun was amazing treated also to a glimpse of other volcano Volcán Lonquimay, Volcán Tolhuaca and Volcán Callaqui as well, at last our volcano count is increasing. 

Tom - Met a crazy dutchman who was riding around Argentina on a bicycle, these cyclists are really tough they spend so much time on there own when they meet someone to talk to the will not stop. Nice guy but had that crazy look in his eyes like all long distant cyclists we have met on our trip.

 As we ride back we cross the lava flows from 2008 eruption which has just carved a deep line through the vegetation and trees. The gravel road we are riding on has just been put back over the top until the next eruption.

From Cuarcaucin we head for the border first takes us through an old rail tunnel constructed by the British to help trade from coast to coast. The road is narrow and so the tunnel called "Túnel Las Raíces" is one way. It once sealed its place in history as the longest tunnel in South America. we stop in Longquimay for a bite to eat a very quaint mountain town which seems to be a main stopping point for everyone on the way too and from the border. The road eventually reaches 1884m Paso Pino Hachado, a border crossing that leads to the Argentine cities of Zapala and Neuquén. Not the highest or most interesting of passes but the road is good and the traffic is ok.
We pass through the Chilean border in minutes more stamps on we go the Argentine border was about 20 miles as we reach it we see the familiar sign of trucks queuing. As far as we could see I front and beyond. This is something we thought we had left behind in Central America. We by-pass the trucks as we have with all other borders and join a queue of cars. Everyone is out of their cars so they had been waiting for a while. After about 10 minutes at the front of the queue appear a smart looking guy appeared to be waving us down. Tom struggles to start the bike and so a car & bus start off before us, we follow quickly only to see the car turning round the bus continues through. We stop at the front of the queue as the guy has now disappeared oh well. 

 Next we are confronted by a very angry woman in bike gear shouting in Spanish and gesturing at us. It would appear that we are either done something we shouldn't or are somewhere we shouldn't be. Oh well says Tom. Next we know a guy is next to us this time shouting in English. From behind comes loads of chanting something about a moto. 

 My heart sunk and visions of stone throwing mobs which had confronted the TopGear team came to mind. The gist was they are not happy with us as we have jumped the queue. They have waited an hour bikes have to wait in line as well. Tom try's to explain with the guy who was so angry he did not listen. Following more rants and gestures he was going to speak to the border guard. The gesturing continued eventually the border guard came over. Spoke to us in Spanish we did not understand Tom explained in English which they did not understand. Eventually the guard pointed to the back of the queue. We turn round and go back to cheers and applause.  

Tom - Mucho Embarrasmento
 
It took us about an hour more to reach the front for the border guard to allocate us with a white slip allowing us to proceed, stated nationality USA. It was a good idea that we had removed the Union Jack from the panniers the night before. 
 Another hour and a discussion about missing paperwork we where ready to go. We had been told that our intended route was difficult full of pot holes and rocks. 

 It was now 5 pm do we risk it or travel on paved road. Tom - After the trauma of the day so far I took the easy option, what a wimp

We arrive in Zapala ( a bit of a hole, very windy and very dusty )a couple of hours later, wind blown and dusty. The cross wind was so strong it blew off one of the plastic tank covers on the bike, amazing.

Played the hotel game again driving round town trying to find something cheap but looking 5 star. Eventually settled for Casino hotel and had stale pizza and warm white wine in the so called restraint. 

 Tom - Why is it they serve red chilled and cannot be arsed to chill the white. It had been an emotional day and i was feeling a bit grumpy. The bloody air con didn't work either so a hot night in store.

 
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