Following the footsteps of Michael Palin
Wednesday, January 28, 2015
Shimla, Himachal Pradesh, India
Thankfully, this morning ,last nights fog had gone and we were able to enjoy the view through the deodar trees from our bedroom across the valley as the sun rose above the hills. After a traditional Indian breakfast of curry masala tea and Kate particularly liked her Indian porridge we took the hotel taxi to the edge of the Mall,Simla's pedestrianised shopping and heritage area marvelling at the quite extraordinarily out of place colonial architecture. we were quite amused by the antics of the macaques who climb and scamper about without any concern .Of particular interest was the Gaiety theatre built in 1887 at the same time as the town hall next door. It was where the British am/dram performed to keep themselves amused during the raj but sadly fell into disrepair after independence. Michael Palin visited during one of his travel programmes and indeed performed there and now it has been brilliantly restored he is due to return in a year or so when it is added to the unesco heritage sites. we were standing outside noting that the guided tour was in 45 minutes when the director of the theatre came over to us and insisted on showing us round personally and explaining everything about it. the theatre holds 300 people and is tiny but a perfect example of a Victorian gothic theatre.Upstairs in a side gallery there were photos of all the plays including a picture of Rudyard Kipling performing in the very first play "what he wrote" that was performed.He also showed us the central heating/aircon system in use before electricity and the viceroys private drawing room now an art gallery.All this cost a £1 for us both allowing photos and because he didn't have change he said pay me when you pass by which we did of course...how trusting. We also visited the C of E church which dominates the Ridge an open space where you can see both sides of the town including in the distance the snow on the Himalayas. Rudyard Kipling's dad designed and made the stained glass for it and just like every church in the uk has memorials in brass inside to various long forgotten colonials and local worthys some of which are very poignant.We enjoyed a cup of tea and the largest pakoras ever in a restaurant with a view but the fog descended again so we called the hotel to send us the taxi. we mistook the pick up place and sat down waiting when a passer by said are you waiting for your taxi because he's further down the road. good karma abounds here.
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