Damp and drizzly again this morning.  We moved on following the 5 road towards Fjaerland via lakes and tunnels.  One tunnel took us under an 'arm' of the Jostedalsbreen Glacier, and as we were about to enter the tunnel there was a stop with fantastic views of the glacier. before this the sides of the roads had been clear, but suddenly we were back to deep snow. We went on to Utvik and Loen which were on a branch of the Nordfjord.   Needless to say it rained for most of the journey.  We turned into the road along the Loenvatnet, a very long narrow glacial lake with a very narrow road winding along it. There were lots of passing places, but the Norwegians are real speed freaks, especially on blind bends.   If you give way to them, wait, or pull over they never acknowledge this - they won't even make eye contact.
The speed limits on Norwegian roads are really low, but they all speed.   We were overtaken by a huge articulated truck - in a tunnel!! Scary!We stopped at the village of Bodal at the head of the valley.   This village is a very sad place in a magnificent setting. In 1905 a huge chunk of a nearby mountain collapsed into the lake, causing a huge tsunami, which swept away most of two villages, causing great loss of life.  A steam boat was lifted up and deposited on the hillside.
The government had eventually persuaded people to return to the villages, when in 1936, an even worse landslide and tidal wave happened and engulfed the village again, killing many people.  There is now a pilgrimage walk and a memorial. We walked quite a long way down the valley, but it was very steep and after so much rain, dangerously slippery, so we turned back.   We did however see the steam ship, which had been swept up by the second wave and dumped even higher up the valley.   See the photos for more details.   We moved on up the valley, intending to drive along a toll road and then climb up along a track for '20 mins' to see the glacier close up.   However the road became even narrower, with more cars coming the other way, so we chickened out, for fear of damaging what is essentially our home for the next 6 weeks or so.
We went back down the valley and up the next one, along another lake to an ACSI campsite, situated in a fantastic position.   However, when we got to reception there was a notice on the door saying that due to the sudden death of the owner the campsite was closed........

There were a couple of MH's there, and we spoke to a Dutch couple who told us the Owner had had a fatal heart attack. A friend of his was on site in a caravan and we could stay for 100NOK.   There was a loo and water available and wifi.   We were a very long way from anywhere, so we stayed.