Drove through an attractive village to the entry to the fortress state of Mystras, and assumed you would start at the bottom, walk ALL the way up and then walk down. No - you walk all the way up the lower town, then down, then drive to the upper town and walk down it and up again, then up the fortress itself then down again to the gate. We explored several monasteries, churches, a small museum and a nunnery, the latter still inhabited, along with ruins of several houses, and slowly climbed higher. Views were fantastic, as were the wall frescoes. The upper town turned out to be a disappointment. The huge "palace" was being restored so was closed, so we hiked all over the upper town and only saw two more monasteries, and a third built partially in a rock cave. Decided to hit the road and not climb up the fortress itself.

The mountain road across this part of the Peloponnese was spectacular, hairpin bends all the way, small roadside chapels again, no traffic and wonderful views .

We arrived at Methoni, skipped the campsite and camped on the beach right next to the fortress. Treated ourselves to dinner on almost the last night in Greece. After a wine for Ann and Ouzo with ice for John and an "appetiser" - anchovy and tomato on toast, we asked to see the menu. "No menu, come to the kitchen and choose." There were at least 8 choices, all delicious, and we ate really well and cheaply for a change.

Walked to the Boomer and lulled to sleep by the waves. Being only 2 metres from the water's edge, John had checked that the Mediterranean tides only rise and fall by less then 20 cm.