Heaven & Hell

Saturday, March 26, 2011
Krabi Town, Thailand
We got up and packed, checked out of our hotel but left our luggage so we could go and explore Tham Tapan, also known as 'Heaven & Hell' cave. We walked along the only main road in Phang Nga until we spotted a statue of a caveman dressed in animal-print pointing up a side street. We were happy for the direction as we weren't entirely sure where we were going, but a short walk later we reached Tham Tapan. It was actually a working monastery and we saw a monk fixing an engine as we entered the complex. There were all sorts of kitsch life-size, brightly coloured figures of monks and animals, including each animal of the Chinese zodiac. There was a large dragon, 100m in length with an open mouth, made out of fibre-glass, that you had to walk through to enter the cave itself. This apparently represented 'HELL' and I didn't like it one bit as it was badly lit, you could hardly see a thing and you did't quite know what was going to be at the other end. However, we made it out and the dragon disappeared into the cliff-side as we continued into the actual cave. It was fairly large once you got inside and quite slippery underfoot as Andrew discovered at once! However, it was lit up and there were a number of bridges to walk over to take you right into the depth of the cave. This natural, 800m long cave represented 'HEAVEN' and contained stalactites, stalagmites and running water. Once we left 'HEAVEN' we walked through a clearing of cheap looking models of people being punished and tortured for living an immoral life. There were people being chopped in half, pressed through a mangle, torn apart by birds, gutted by dogs and being forced to climb up a spiky pole, amongst other things! However, it all seemed a bit comical to us even though it was genuinely meant to warn people against sinning! We then walked to the back of the complex and up a huge flight of steep stairs that led to a stupa. The view was stunning as you could see the limestone karsts in the distance. We had a rest at the top for a while before walking cautiously back down the stairway. There were hideously distorted demons with metre-long tongues and huge genitalia staring down at us as we left the complex. It was a strange place and as we left the monk was swinging in a hammock. I didn't quite understand the broad concepts of Heaven & Hell, especially in relation to Buddhism.
 
We started walking back to our hotel but a dog started following us and wouldn't leave our side . I started to feel a bit nervous as it was very rugged looking, but Andrew just told me to ignore the thing. However, a local Thai man stopped as he was driving past us on his moped to shout at the dog to try and get it to leave us alone. He even offered us a lift on his moped! We said we were fine but I was then more worried as he obviously thought the dog was a bit of a problem. It started barking at the man as he drove off, so we quickly crossed the road and held back for it to get further ahead of us, until it was no longer in sight. We felt hungry and so we stopped off at KFC for the third time since arriving in Phang Nga! We collected our luggage from our hotel and went to the Bus Station to get a bus to Krabi. It took just over an hour to get there and we jumped in a songathew to take us into Krabi town as the Bus Station was typically a few km away. We checked in to 'Area 51' and our room was nicely decorated with a huge bay window. However, the bed felt like it was made of concrete! We just got inside in time as it started to rain really heavy and continued to do so for the rest of the night. We had to venture out in it though to eat and found a place called 'May & Mark' that was fairly cheap. The owner was even complaining about the rain, saying it hadn't stopped for five consecutive days and it was supposed to be the hot season!
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